Sam Sifton approves of Anella: “[T]he food is a wonder: a tight and focused menu of simple, seasonally appropriate food from Joseph Ogrodnek, a talented chef who has been in the kitchen for almost a year.”
Ryan Sutton isn’t a fan of Lavo: “In a year when excellent Italian in myriad regional forms dominated New York’s food scene, this popular newbie hawks marinara sauce (supermarket quality), garlic bread (even worse), big portions (18-inch pizzas) and fried Oreos (these are gooey and great with a malted shake).”
Jay Cheshes isn’t impressed by the Fat Radish: “You’ll never look better than when you’re seated inside, surrounded by votives at a distressed farmhouse table. But the shabby-chic space, as meticulously curated as an Anthropologie store, lacks warmth and personality. The same can be said of the earnest, Anglo-leaning cooking. It’s painfully on-trend — homespun, multicultural, Greenmarket, low-fat — but so short on innovation, this place might as well be an H&M knockoff.”
Gael Greene raves over Fish Tag, despite a few misses: “After two visits I’m excited to say that most of the food is very good, even wonderful, with a staccato of flubs. But, it’s just going into its third week.”
Instead of a review this week, Steve Cuozzo files a rant about all the dining trends he wishes would die, including “silly feasts” like Má Pêche’s Beef 7 Ways; dry chicken like at Lincoln; weak tiki like at Hurricane Club; stemless wine glasses like at Osteria Morini; “waiters who push you to overorder by pretending to ‘explain’ the menu; Wendy’s Natural-Cut Fries with Sea Salt; jumbo-sized restos like Zengo; and Williamsburg.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 22, 2010