The relentless barrage of year-end lists means that the lists’ contents tend to get lost in a shiny, amorphous tangle, so we’re grateful for Steve Cuozzo’s annual dining-related invective, deposited among the tinsel like a fat lump of coal. The Post critic’s take on 2010 is more or less as withering as his take on the years preceding it, but this time he reserves special scorn for Williamsburg, as both point of geography and state of mind.
Opining that the neighborhood’s “restaurants wouldn’t receive one-sixteenth the attention they get if so many food writers and bloggers didn’t live there or nearby,” Cuozzo asserts that “Fatty Cue is not Fatty Crab. There are better places to eat in Red Hook, Downtown Brooklyn and in unfashionable Bensonhurst and Bay Ridge. The stomping ground of subsidized slackers who spend fortunes trying to look poor, Williamsburg needs a one-year media blackout. Maybe it will encourage restaurants to prepare themselves good enough for real-world scrutiny.”
This naturally brings to mind the earlier rant voiced by Jeffrey Steingarten, who harbored similarly curmudgeonly feelings toward Brooklyn at large. Which leaves us to wonder: If two well-fed, middle-aged white men hate Brooklyn — or at least the part of it covered exhaustively by conveniently situated writers and bloggers — will one more make it a trend that will eventually end up on the year-end lists of 2011?
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 22, 2010