Sara Jenkins files her latest Porsena dispatch at The Atlantic today. It’s her first since opening the restaurant a few weeks ago, and, as her column makes clear, those weeks have been hell. At one point she considered turning the place over to Nate Appleman and running off to Hanoi. But! She has instead found salvation from the “deep satisfaction that comes from putting out the food we want in the way we want and having our customers be as happy with it as we are. No third-world lifestyle with villas and servants will ever come close to that.”
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