Newsflash: Well-appointed, Old Establishment Manhattan food writers have an aversion to outer-borough dining.
Following in the footsteps of Jeffrey Steingarten and Steve Cuozzo is former New York Times critic Mimi Sheraton, who declared in an interview with Capital New York that “the whole Brooklyn thing must be greatly exaggerated.”
Echoing Cuozzo’s earlier sentiments, she continued that Brooklyn’s “very exaggerated” coverage in the Times is “because most of them live there. They begin to see it as being better than it is because it’s so close to them. I would go to Brooklyn if it were exceptional.” But until that day comes, don’t expect to see her standing in line at Al di Là, or any of the establishments located in the four Brooklyn neighborhoods that constitute the food media’s definition of “Brooklyn.”
Sheraton seems to have a bone to pick with the Dining section at large, adding that it’s too trend-focused and that Sam Sifton’s work is “food writing for an audience less interested in food and more interested in the experience and the theater of it. … I don’t like it at all. … I usually skip the first column and a half and get to the food, because that’s what I think it’s about.”
For the record, Sheraton also doesn’t take David Chang “seriously as a chef,” though her interviewer declines to ask her why, exactly, and on the topic of food trucks reveals herself to be somewhat out of touch with the common office worker: “I don’t know where they eat it … where the hell do you eat it?”