‘Tis soup season, and there is no shortage of good brothy bowls to warm you in this town. The growing number of great ramen joints comes to mind. But when it comes to the kind of wet cold that gets in your bones, like the kind that soaked through so many socks yesterday, nothing beats a bowl of ox bone soup.
The sul lung tang at Gahm Mi Oak in Koreatown is milky white and fat-rich. As is the custom, you season it yourself at the table with as much salt and fresh green scallions as will please you. It’s not an elegant soup or even an incredibly eye-popping one, flavor-wise, as some of the more lust-worthy ramens in the city are. But it’s buttressing the way a lumberjack breakfast is. And if you can get through the entire bowl of slippery noodles, thin slices of chewy brisket, and starchy white rice lurking at the bottom, then no snow or rain or ungodly combination of both will ever be able to chill you again.
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