Yesterday, Russ & Daughters issued a clarion call: For a limited time only, it’s carrying double-smoked Danish salmon. Double-smoked is to salmon what wagyu is to beef and Egyptian cotton is to sleep. So this morning, we heeded the call.
At $12.99 for a quarter pound, the folks at Russ aren’t screwing around: Placing an order feels a little like taking your great-grandmother’s jewels from a safe-deposit box. But man, is it worth it. The flavor is all gossamer smoke and the texture is so lush and fatty that eating the fish is like a full-body, deep-tissue massage for your tongue.
This is salmon to hoard, savor, and hide from your friends and loved ones. Fortunately, a little goes a long way, and it will have to: According to one of its redoubtable counter men, Russ will only carry the salmon — which comes from small, multigenerational smokehouse on Denmark’s Bornholm coast — for another month or so. After it disappears, fish freaks will only be able to wring their hands and wait penitently for the start of the Holland herring season.
Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston Street
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 21, 2011