Fatty Johnson’s Puts the Ham Back in Hamburger


The fried egg on top of Fatty Johnson’s burger says, “Good morning!”

Fatty Johnson’s is a six-week pop-up that replaced Cabrito on Carmine Street in the West Village (the iconic hanging goat has been haphazardly painted with the initials “FJ”). From a seriously twisted menu that features American comfort foods sometimes goosed up with Asian flavors (and virtually no vegetables) comes a cheeseburger that manages to distinguish itself in the crowded burger field by topping itself, not with bacon, but with ham.

Seen in cross-section by candlelight, the burger oozes onto the plate.

The cheese is bebis, a sheep’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees, and the ham is wildly smoky. The optional egg is a necessary addition to increase the lushness, and between the runny yolk, melted cheese, and general moistness of the meat, this is the real “five-napkin burger.”

Grandly termed “fried confit potatoes” ($6), the fries are creamy and taste like they’ve been fried not once, but a few times, and come with aioli for dipping. Cheeseburger $14, with ham $16, with ham and fried egg $17.

Fatty Johnson’s
50 Carmine Street

Fatty’s fries.

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 30, 2011


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