Sam Sifton awards one star to the Fat Radish: “The menu at the Fat Radish is British after a fashion, rustic at that, lighter than its promise, often more flavorful. The dining room is beautiful and airy, a space that might have been a sweatshop once but now belongs to art directors.”
Sifton also approves of Donatella, the restaurant (though apparently not Donatella the person): “Donatella is no Co., the Chelsea pizza den run by the dough fanatic Jim Lahey, but it is a number of steps above the rest of the neighborhood’s slice purveyors. From a culinary point of view, it seems about Ms. Arpaia’s speed.”
Jay Cheshes files on Lotus of Siam, but not before the owners, the Chutimas, could pull out: “Though you’ll find the same delectable dishes on the menu in Vegas, the New York renditions cost quite a bit more. The haute cuisine prices are an odd fit for such a frequently frantic and casual setting, lit with white paper lanterns and packed with far too many small wooden tables. Even in this manic space, however, the food at its peak is well worth the price.” For now.
Underground Gourmet raves over Porsena: “[Sara] Jenkins’s cooking is rustic but refined, and you could say the same of the streamlined but comfortable-enough setting, a long, narrow space divided into a bar with counter-height tables and a (slightly cramped) banquette-lined dining room, with a farm table anchored next to the open kitchen.”
Ryan Sutton forgoes a review this week in favor of listing his favorite gut (and wallet) busting picks for Super Bowl scarfing, including Momofuku Ssäm‘s $350 Super Bowl package, which includes nachos with cheese, macaroni with chorizo, and slow-roasted pork shoulder; and Fatty ‘Cue‘s $59 foot-long brisket sandwich.
Gael Greene is hard-pressed to find a dish she doesn’t like at Tulsi. And she doesn’t remember “ever encountering anything like coconut-scented green chile-spiked shrimp and crab stuffed into a pappadam.”
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