We’ll eat herring in every possible permutation, be it pickled, smoked, or covered in curry sauce, so when a friend told us about the Trinidadian fry bake, a breakfast bread often filled with herring, we hustled over to Bed-Stuy to order one from A&A Bake and Doubles.
At A&A, fry bakes can be had fried or roasted. We opted for the latter, since it involved a hefty slab of coconut bread. After the woman behind the counter stuffed the bread with a mix of fish and onions, the man behind the cash register charged us $4 for the privilege.
It was an excellent deal — aside from being a pescatarian delight, the thing is also a certifiable gutbomb. This owes mainly to the coconut bread, which is fluffy yet pleasingly dense, and served in a portion large enough to give a USDA dietitian night terrors. Barely sweetened, its gentle coconut flavor works well with the herring, which is served in salty, chewy nuggets that have been smoked and seasoned until they bear an unexpected resemblance to bottarga.
Altogether, it’s a breakfast that as satiating as it is delectable. It’s also an unlikely diet aid, given that its consumption will render one completely uninterested in lunch and most solid foods for the rest of the day. Eat wisely, and with relish.
A&A Bake and Doubles
481 Nostrand Avenue, Brooklyn
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