This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers authentic Hungarian comfort food on the Upper East Side; Lauren Shockey is bored by oodles of tartan and whiskey at Mary Queen of Scots.
Sam Sifton is charmed by Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan: “Those who recall when Chinese food first began to matter here, when it was a kind of joy to travel to Chinatown in search of raw authenticity and immense flavor, will discover similar joys here, though after a somewhat longer trip from Manhattan.”
Steve Cuozzo approves of Lyon: “Lyon is The Lion for grown-ups. Not that this enchanting new bistro on a picturesque West Village corner has anything in common with that chaotic, neo-tourist scene nearby — it’s not American but nominally French, the space not vertical but linear, and the vibe throbbing but civilized.”
Ryan Sutton raves over Ciano: “Ciano isn’t just another excellent restaurant with Italian food. Someday, it might even rival Babbo, Marea or Ai Fiori. It’s already attracting crowds.”
Adam Platt finds hits and misses at Red Rooster Harlem: “In general, the simplest of [Marcus] Samuelsson’s down-home recipes work best. … The most satisfying dish of all is the ‘fried yard bird’ fried chicken, which is soaked in buttermilk, seized in a crispy, almost candylike crust, and served, in classic neighborhood style, with spicy collard greens, mace gravy, and can of spicy ‘shake’ seasoning on the side.”
Meanwhile, the Metromix editors couldn’t disagree more with Platt about Red Rooster: “[Y]ou can basically split the menu into two: refined upscale bites (a/k/a the kind that flew so successfully at Aquavit) and relaxed comfort food (aka fried chicken). The problem with Rooster is that, on the whole, Samuelsson excels at the former and stumbles with the latter.”
Jay Cheshes says Millesime might be “the most ambitious new brasserie to open in years. … While the menu features a few modern creations, like a warm Caesar salad with grilled lettuce hearts and smoky cod as an elegant stand-in for anchovies, [Laurent] Manrique’s cooking here is mostly a throwback.”
Gael Greene goes all the way out to the Bronx and promptly falls for Patricia’s: “A swath of the burrata from Bari dotted with those aristocratic grape tomatoes arrives on a small round, beautifully blistered [sic]. I cannot believe I am eating pizza after that sophisticated tasting.”