Chinese buns are not just for breakfast anymore.
When Golden Steamer opened last year on Mott Street, it revealed to us a whole new world of southern Chinese savory baked goods.
While we’d been familiar with the sponge cakes and tarts that dazzle the eye in Chinese bakeries — which take the baking traditions of the British and mutate them in interesting directions — the savory branch of this pastry family has remained more obscure. Sure, you’d see the occasional tubular roll with a hot dog sticking out the end, but Golden Steamer has taken this approach to the most extreme limit, making the sweet things a sort of sideline to the savory baked and steamed products.
The picture shows Golden Steamer’s version of the fabled hot dog roll, plus a scallion roll, and a sesame roll. But don’t worry — all these buns incorporate some sugar into the formula, so the rolls are also a bit sweet and salty. Many are offered warm, and they make a very nice cheap lunch or snack on the run.
143A Mott Street
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