Bless that Christian Siriano; he does not know how to whisper. The Project Runway alumnus unveiled his kind of restraint on Thursday evening at Lincoln Center with an initially inky collection: every dress was a variation on black, allowing the emphasis to fall on playful variations of volume.
Tweed double-breasted military coats fell severely over diaphanous, floor-length chiffon skirts; bouclè paneled sheath dressed reflected intricate crossed panels of sequins and ruched feathers; finely knit turtlenecks cinched in extravagantly billowing hoop skirts. This segued eventually to an acid-green palette with beautiful overlaying black ruffle tulle and, for his typically extra-feminine concluding frock, a silk organza ruffled gown in the most Barbie of baby-pinks.
But while Siriano’s clothes were a delightful and spirited reflection of the young designer, the same cannot be said of his Payless shoe collection. His models strutted in the fall collection, a spattering of Alexander McQueen-influenced hooves (and Siriano was an intern for iconic, departed British designer), but many stumbled on the mammoth stiletto heels. One model tumbled to her knees, the 6-inch platform death trap skittering ahead of her on the runway.
By Siriano’s final bow, three models had fallen in his heels. The final one, who tripped in the mass walk-through conclusion, held the vindictive shoe in her hand and limped to conclusion. Not the greatest endorsement, there.