The bratwurst at Der Schwarze Kölner is one of the best bar-food deals in Brooklyn.
Associated with the northern Bavarian city of Nürnberg, bratwurst is perhaps the quintessential German sausage, the leader in a crowded field that runs to dozens upon dozens of types.
The sausage is usually made with a combination of pork and veal seasoned with some combination of ginger, coriander, nutmeg, and carraway. The flesh is pale white, and mildly flavored, the perfect companion to German pilsners and lagers.
At Der Schwarze Kölner (“The Black Cologne Resident”), a Czech-German beer hall in Fort Greene, bratwurst is offered in a bun with grainy mustard for $4, which must be considered a good deal as far as restaurant dining goes, an incentive to grab another stein of the beer hall’s 17 drafts, or another bottle from the 20-bottle collection.
Der Schwarze Kölner
710 Fulton Street
Fort Greene, Brooklyn
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