Today in his Time column, Josh Ozersky expresses his deep appreciation for Eddie Huang. It’s not his food that the ambitious food writer (who himself aspires to greater notoriety) admires, but rather it’s Huang’s media savvy, his adeptness at communicating his irreverent — if vulnerable — image, and his deft social networking skills. Writes Ozersky:
Establishment critics like Sifton have finally noted: you don’t have to earn your food cred the hard way anymore. Huang gets by on a cocktail of personality, hustle, some luck, some cooking ability, but most of all a really compelling ability to communicate who he is to the world. If you want to understand where the food world is going, and the special way that it intersects with our social-media-driven public life, he is the guy you should be looking at.
Someone like Huang has built a cult of personality, and I’m in the cult. What I think of the food in his next restaurant won’t matter one bit, unless it’s truly horrendous — and even then, I’ll probably tweet about it, keeping the cult alive.