A nicely toasted bun is highly correlative of a good burger.
The name is a bit of a stretch — 5 Napkin Burger — and I went in suspicious of how good, and how gloppy, it could be.
Designated on the menu as “Original 5 Napkin Burger,” the signature hamburger is 10 ounces of chuck, the shoulder and neck meat of the steer. This part of the animal tends to be tough and fatty, though loaded with flavor, which is why it makes such a great burger.
At 5 Napkin, it comes nightcapped with caramelized onions and a thick swatch of gruyère cheese — the one French cooks tend to use for the toasted cheese sandwiches called croque monsieur and croque madame. The cheese melts like an m.f.’er, and forms an accusatory pool beneath the rounded hillock of burger.
The taste is great, the quantity abundant, and the onion rings we got on the side instead of fries some of the best in town. And NYC is an onion-ring-challenged city.
5 Napkin Burger
630 Ninth Avenue
100 Days/100 Dishes is an almost-random alphabetical collection of delicious dishes from around the five boroughs. See the entire series so far.
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