Sometimes, when overweening ambition and one too many senseless product endorsements become too much to bear, it’s useful to be reminded of the elemental, ego-free pleasures that an expertly cooked vegetable can entail.
Case in point are the cooking greens ($5 for a half-pint) at Porchetta, the pork shop whose menu happens to feature some of the best vegetarian food in the city. Sara Jenkins’s approach to leafy greens is similar to that she takes to swine: She basically acts as a microphone for the ingredients, amplifying their attributes while allowing them to speak for themselves. Here, tangles of broccoli rabe and big, muscular wads of kale are cooked until they wilt but still maintain their textural integrity. Interspersed with cloves of roasted garlic, they’re served gutsy, bitter, and steaming hot, an ideal way to cut through cold and bullshit alike.
110 East 7th Street
More:Vegetarian and Vegan