While Jeffrey’s has lately been having a hard time of it in the Essex Street Market, Tom Mylan has been getting his kicks across the East River by sneaking offal into everything he can at the Meat Hook. Mylan owns up to this predilection in a ditty he’s penned for the Atlantic Food Channel, titled, appropriately, “A Butcher’s Greatest Joy.”
Although Mylan admits that — gasp — he doesn’t like offal, he doesn’t like to waste it, either, which is why he and his crew work it into “terrines, pâtés, and bullcrap in aspic every week.” But his real love is “sneaking offal into things that you would buy at a truck stop.” Hence the Meat Hook Meat Sauce and Meat Hook Chili, which are 25 percent braised pork skin, and jerky sticks, which are made from the beef and pork hearts that customers otherwise refuse to buy. Regardless of your feelings about beef heart, it is, as Mylan points out, certainly a lot less weird than the things that food companies have been sneaking into beef jerky for years.
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