Robert Sietsema at Fedora; Lauren Shockey at Graffit


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gorges himself on Quebecois-accented food at Fedora in “Little Wisco”; Lauren Shockey experiments with Graffit: “While not everything is a smash success, the food is playful and visually compelling.”

Sam Sifton is unimpressed with FishTag, deeming it “a good restaurant trapped inside a bad one … what happens when children get into Mom’s closet and play at fashion. The food shows up in the dining room overdressed and shrieking in three shades of lipstick and mismatched slingbacks, with flavors that clash or do something rather worse than that.” [NY Times]

Steve Cuozzo revises his opinion of Ciano after initially disliking it: “Chef/partner Shea Gallante’s kitchen is delivering on the northern-Italian promise that peeked through his splendid modern-American menu at prematurely shuttered Cru.” [NY Post]

Ryan Sutton revisits Sushi Yasuda now that Naomichi Yasuda has returned to Japan: “Yasuda returned to Tokyo, where he’s opening an eight-seat sushi restaurant. Rest assured, however, that Sushi Yasuda remains true to its owner.” [Bloomberg]

Adam Platt files on Junoon (“Sometimes the quality of the cooking justifies the elaborate pomp and ceremony at this slightly overpompous restaurant, and sometimes it does not”) and the John Dory Oyster Bar (“There are fifteen signature drinks available … but [April] Bloomfield’s abbreviated, tapas-style menu is a shadow of its former self”). [NY Magazine]

Gael Greene is “mesmerized” by the hot server at Ember Room, but finds it early days still for the food: “I wouldn’t consider reviewing this fledgling Ember Room now.” [Insatiable Critic]