What Happens When Returns, Goes Into the Woods


What Happens When, John Fraser’s ever-changing restaurant/installation/culinary fantasia, begins its second life today.

Per the restaurant’s PR arm, this time around it will be a combination of Where the Wild Things Are and “a veritable cabinet of curiosities.” Sadly, there probably won’t be waiters parading around in plushy Sendak-monster garb, but there will be a giant swing, animal tracks in the floor, and big, fake pine needles. The idea apparently is for guests to “assume the viewpoint of a child in a forest,” though it sounds more like they’ll assume the viewpoint of a child who’s been eating special mushrooms off the forest floor.

As for the food, the three-course, $58 menu will include numerous forest creatures: Think venison tartare with saltine crackers, gooseberries, and spiced puree; frogs’ legs with potatoes, leeks, and mint; and stuffed brook trout with beets, almonds, and fennel.

Spirits-wise, Fraser is featuring a honey-based gin made by fermenting honey and adding flavors like allspice, ginger, and lemon. It will be offered alongside five other spirits, two white wines, two red, and one sparkling.

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