This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema revels in authentic German at Heartbreak, proclaiming that “never has there been anything quite like Heartbreak, which seeks to elevate the culinary status of peasant classics.” Lauren Shockey pays a visit to Cocoron, which is “poised to change the city’s noodlescape, bringing soba into the culinary limelight.”
Sam Sifton awards two stars to Red Rooster Harlem: “The restaurant may not be the best to open in New York City this year (though the food is good). But it will surely be counted as among the most important. It is that rarest of cultural enterprises, one that supports not just the idea or promise of diversity, but diversity itself.”
Jay Cheshes enjoys Fedora, where the chef, “the young Canadian Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly — a veteran of Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal — serves Quebecois party food for epicurean hipsters that’s giddy, excessive and fun. … The food is eccentric, yes, but not so extreme you couldn’t, or wouldn’t, want to eat here twice a week”
Steve Cuozzo forgoes a review to rant about the clubification of dining, like at such restaurants as the Trilby and Beauty & Essex: “As restaurants struggle for every dime, and nightlife impresarios yearn for respect beyond the club-crawling, druggy demimonde, it’s getting hard to tell real eateries from those where the food’s to keep you from passing out on an empty stomach.”
The editors have high hopes for Goat Town: ” Although it’s still a work in progress and some dishes leave much to be desired, it’s got the makings of a solid and longstanding neighborhood spot already brimming with instant classics (that chicken! that burger!) that people will want to keep coming back for.”
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