Steve Cuozzo is angry again, this time at restaurants that “epitomize the clubification of an eating-out scene that was once for the sole purpose of eating.”
Specifically, the New York Post‘s dependably cranky critic is pointing his finger at Beauty & Essex, the Trilby, Lavo, and the Darby, as well as mustier offenders like Butter and (you don’t say!) Bagatelle.
Cuozzo faults the chefs and nightlife types who climb into bed together and spawn these hell children out of a desire for cash and respectability, respectively, but he may also want to point a finger or two at the community boards. Given that serving a nominal menu has become a favored way for club and bar owners to convince the boards that they’re opening an eating establishment rather than some sordid glory hole with bottle service, it’s little wonder that so many want to partner up with chefs of varying esteem. No one may actually want to eat tuna tartare at 4 a.m., but it has a way of making a liquor-license application easier to swallow.
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