Now you don’t have to go to East Elmhurst to enjoy a taco placeros — just take the L to the Bedford stop.
Four years ago on an extreme taco run from Corona to Woodside on Roosevelt Avenue — intent on sampling at least two tacos from every store, truck, and cart — my gang and I stumbled on a small establishment called Tacos Morelos. This stand was different.
Unlike any taco you’ve ever tasted before.
Not only did they make their own tortillas right in the cart, Tacos Morelos offered a series of tacos that contained never-before-seen fillings that included egg and pepper strips, and chile relleno and rice. These tacos placeros (“market tacos”) are a contrast to the meat-heavy product one usually finds flying from the taco trucks. They represent a sort of poverty food of the state of Puebla. In other words, it’s what you get when you’re hungry that’s sold in the market. It’s similar to the chaat tradition in India, whereby the customer hesitates to undertake the time and expense of eating a full meal in a restaurant; rather, she slips into a chaat house for a gooey and crunchy snack.
That Tacos Morelos cart morphed into an East Elmhurst restaurant (which Fork in the Road declared the best Mexican restaurant in town), and the restaurant begot a small truck, and now that truck is parked every evening at the corner of North 7th Street and Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg. By some miracle, the vehicle vends a single taco placeros, in addition to the usual roster of antojitos.
Here’s what it looks like under the jaundiced glare of the street light. See below for what it really looks like.
And there it is, the chile relleno taco in all its glory, a $4 feast that features a breaded chile relleno stuffed with a giant slab of white Oaxacan cheese, which is deposited in a tortilla with lots of rice and then squirted with guac and crema. It’s a prodigious snack or a medium-size meal, and there’s nothing like it this side of East Elmhurst.
Here’s what it looks like in the restaurant, before application of sauces.
More:Vegetarian and Vegan