Sam Sifton lets Veritas keep its three stars, pronouncing it “now worth visiting again. … [Chef Sam Hazen] has introduced to the restaurant a tightly focused, extremely flavorful and somewhat less expensive à la carte menu of aggressively American cooking.”
Sifton also drops in on What Happens When, currently in Movement 2: “[I]t’s pretty terrific food … a $58 prix fixe menu worth eating even if the space vibes temporary and the chairs are uncomfortable. [John] Fraser, who has the elegant Dovetail on the Upper West Side, did not come downtown to play fast and loose. His budget is low. His kitchen is top-flight.”
Steve Cuozzo raves over Red Rooster Harlem: “For all the acclaim over the joint’s effortless multiculturalism, this is first and foremost a grand new place to eat — and a breeze to reach on the 2 and 3 trains (125th Street station) and the M-102 bus. But it also marks a milestone in Harlem’s unfolding regeneration.”
Ryan Sutton approves of Fedora: “Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, an alum of Au Pied de Cochon, Montreal’s famous foie gras and pig’s feet fetisheria, serves strong Franco-American fare whose flavors holler louder than the crowd.”
Jay Cheshes is not so taken with Ai Fiori: “[T]he concept is as incoherent as it is ambitious: [Michael] White, operating for the first time without former front-of-house partner Chris Cannon, has given us a restaurant that is all over the map.”
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