Robert Sietsema at Goat Town; Lauren Shockey on Mulberry Street


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema enjoys the French bistro fare at Goat Town; Lauren Shockey takes a tour of a revitalized Mulberry Street with stops at Rubirosa, Torrisi Italian Specialties, and Balaboosta.

Sam Sifton awards one star to La Petite Maison: ‘This scene is not, obviously, for everyone. The restaurant has an aesthetic that the uncharitable might characterize as of the European carting-business style. The menu, while competently prepared and wildly expensive, is hardly adventurous. About the desserts, the less said the better. La Petite Maison demands a willing suspension of disbelief.” [NY Times]

Betsy Andrews recommends a snackified jaunt through Koreatown with stops at Paris Baguette, Koryodang, H-Mart, and Food Gallery 32. [NY Times]

Instead of a review, Steve Cuozzo pens a pre-emptive strike on Hakkasan: “Eight months before it opens here, Hakkasan is already the year’s most annoying new restaurant. On my sole visit to the London flagship, the door was guarded by bouncers with clipboards.” [NY Post]

Adam Platt admits he doesn’t hate the food at What Happens When: “The slim, notebook-size prix fixe menus ($58 for three courses) are affixed to slats of plywood with rubber bands, and the recipes they contain are predictably artsy, righteously seasonal, and designed, like most things in the room, with an antic, slightly forced sense of occasion in mind. … [John] Fraser’s cooking can have a thin, cobbled-together feel, but it’s rarely boring.” [NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes, on the other hand, is charmed by What Happens When: “While plenty of corners are cut here to keep the overhead low — the place settings are fetched self-serve from drawers under the tables — the cooking goes a long way toward justifying the $58-per-person price of admission.” [TONY]

Tables for Two is rather taken with Kin Shop: “[Harold] Dieterle’s menu, augmented by daily specials (roasted bone marrow, whole porgie), steers clear of predictability.” [New Yorker]

The Metromix editors find hits and misses at La Follia Osteria: “Sexy prices and thoughtful dishes make this a solid bet for Gramercy, but some notable culinary stumbles prevent it from hitting a good stride.” [Metromix]

Gael Greene finds a lot to love at Spasso: “Oh, if only Spasso had landed in my neighborhood. I would like to walk in for pasta after a movie. Not that it isn’t worth a detour.” [Insatiable Critic]