What Happens When John Fraser Goes Boating


At Fork in the Road HQ, today only means one thing, and that’s Choice Eats. But to fans of John Fraser and lovers of ephemeral dining experiences, it means something else, and that is the launch of the third movement of What Happens When. And whereas the second installment was all about wild things and forest floors, this one takes its inspiration from lazy lunches and French Impressionism.

Specifically, What Happens When’s latest incarnation takes its cues from Auguste Renoir’s Luncheon of the Boating Party, which depicts a group of the artist’s friends relaxing at Maison Fournaise, a restaurant on the banks of the Seine. There’s also a lap dog in the painting, making it particularly relevant to 21st-century Soho.

The restaurant’s designer, Elle Kunnos de Voss, will translate Renoir to Cleveland Place via branch-like light fixtures, a large awning, and period-specific bathroom décor involving boudoirs and harbor graphics.

The menu will likewise reflect 19th-century France: Look for dishes like rabbit in filo with yogurt, dates, and garbabzo beans; swordfish grille; and vegetable bouillabaisse. As usual, the prix fixe menu is $58.

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