Another dude has won another season of Top Chef, and that’s provided another opportunity to ask why there aren’t more female chefs not only in the winners’ circle, but also in the upper echelons of the kitchen hierarchy.
“Why can’t women win Top Chef?” asks the story on Yahoo Shine. Several of the show’s female contestants have some answers: “I don’t think men are more professional,” says Casey Thompson. “I think it’s just how competition is built and played.” “Women can only go so hard without getting labeled a ‘b-tch,’ but men can push to the end of the universe,” says Tiffani Faison, who also contends that Jen Carroll wasn’t sent home because of a bad dish, but because of a bad attitude. And according to Tiffany Derry, “Certain people mess up as much as anybody else, but for us it’s an emotional thing.” Incidentally, adds Thompson, “guys hated when women made soups.”
All of this, of course, is exactly the sort of stuff people say to explain why women have a harder time than men in professional kitchens. It shouldn’t come as that great a surprise that, as the article says, reality cooking competitions present a microcosm of the gender politics at play in restaurant kitchens. But seeking to explain the imbalance on TV also ignores the obvious, which is not only that contestants are sent home based on the judges’ taste buds, but also that contestants with so-called bad attitudes are good for ratings and thus likely to stick around a little longer. And the bias argument is further weakened by Casey Thompson’s own admission that “the judges really don’t pull favorite cards. It’s really about the food.”
Of course, there’s that old argument that women and men cook differently, which is usually framed by saying men like to do molecular things and women like to make comfort food. But while Richard Blaise certainly knew his way around a liquid-nitrogen canister, that argument is as overly simplified as it is tiring. There is, of course, plenty of dick-swinging on Top Chef, and that’s tiresome, too, but as much as we’d like to see another woman win the title (Stephanie Izard is the only woman to have done so during the show’s eight seasons), we’d also like to have a different conversation about why professional kitchens discriminate not only against women, but pretty much anyone who isn’t a white male.