A little more than a year ago, we kicked off Fat Pants Friday with a trip to Williamsburg’s Blue Stove Bakery, where we fell instantly in love with the cherry pie. But as much as we adored it, and longed to spend untold hours sitting next to the bakery’s window eating pastries, we’re almost never in that part of Williamsburg. And so a year passed without a return visit. And then this week Blue Stove came to us, at Choice Eats, and reminded us of everything we’d been missing.
This is a bakery that really understands the spirit of generosity that baked goods should embody: Its table groaned beneath the weight of four different kinds of pie, all served in mammoth slabs. Although we’d already consumed more than any human stomach can or should contain, we were powerless in the face of the pear-ginger pie.
Surrender was sweet, if incapacitating. Lush, slightly caramelized chunk of pear were enclosed between a thick, oaty crumble and tender, flaky crust. The ginger was assertive without being obnoxious, and made beautiful, hypnotic music with the pie’s sweet and savory notes. It was a pie that demanded eating, regardless of how much eating had preceded it, so we had no choice but to obey. And having done so, we will be making a belated trip to Blue Stove sometime in the near future, where we will bask in caloric splendor and watch the world drift by.
Blue Stove Bakery
415 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 1, 2011