We’d been meaning for weeks to get over to Clinton Hill to try the doughnuts that Fany Gerson has been making at Dough, the little shop that the Choice Market folks opened late last year. And after watching Gerson hypnotically dunk doughnut after doughnut into a reservoir of sugar glaze for Food Curated, we resolved to waste no more time in getting on the G train.
If you’re a fan of the raised doughnut, then Dough is your portal to earthly paradise. Gerson’s creations could double as pillows, provided you don’t mind waking up with sugar caked to your head. But despite their Rubenesque contours, they’re surprisingly ethereal things, light and airy as a popover. Impeccably fresh, their soft innards tear apart easily, releasing a warm, yeasty aroma. Their sweetness is a function of the assorted glazes, which come in flavors like hibiscus, blood orange, and coconut. The dulce de leche glaze is really sweet, but the toasted almond slivers sprinkled across its surface prevent it from becoming too one-note.
Priced at only $2, the dulce de leche doughnut is a breakfast of Fat Pants champions. Short of staying in bed and watching Mad Men reruns all day, we’re hard-pressed to think of a better way to end the week and start the weekend.
305 Franklin Avenue
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 8, 2011