Veggie burgers are getting to be like opinions: It seems like everybody has one. While that may be an exaggeration, there’s no doubt that they’ve been gradually breaking free of their Morningstar-Boca shackles, thanks to a number of restaurants that have started to treat them as real food, rather than as a token, half-assed attempt to appease killjoy vegetarians. As Lukas Volger, the author of Veggie Burgers Every Which Way, told us last year, it’s not just “hippie moms” who are jumping on the bandwagon; even the Times recently saw fit to acknowledge that the former bête noire of vegetarian cuisine is earning respect. So tomorrow, we will dedicate Our 10 Best to the most noteworthy ones we’ve eaten — and we promise that none of them will contain the words “frozen vegetable medley.”
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