Robert Sietsema at Yi Lan Halal Restaurant; Lauren Shockey at Buvette


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema uncovers the city’s first true Muslim Chinese restaurant: Yi Lan Halal. Lauren Shockey fills up on small bites at Francophile Buvette.

Sam Sifton awards one star to Graffit for the fanfare more than the fare: “Jesús Núñez, the Madrid chef who opened the restaurant in December, has no evident interest in classical cooking — either Spanish or any other kind. His attention instead appears to be centered on art and architecture, on a playful response to culinary tradition rather than an allegiance to it.”
[NY Times]

Underground Gourmet approves of Earl’s Beer and Cheese in Harlem: “an excellent ambassador for all things hoppy, malty, and dairy, in a neighborhood where those pickings are particularly slim.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes seeks out new Jewish cuisine at both Mile End and Octavia’s Porch. The former “strikes just the right balance, with a new dinner menu that manages to be both ambitious and reverential.” The latter, however, “misses the mark, fumbling awkwardly through [Top Chef alum Nikki Cascone’s] ancestral pantry.”

Tables for Two finds a lot to love at Porsena: “As [Sara] Jenkins proved with Porchetta, the roast-pork shop she opened down the street in 2008, she knows what she’s doing in the kitchen.”
[New Yorker]

Gael Greene revisits Café Fiorello, where she is unpleasantly surprised to find she’s been priced out: “Now this well-preserved standby — old fashioned, a bit too bright — across from Lincoln Center has become rather, sort of, how shall I put it? Okay, here goes. Expensive.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Instead of a review, Steve Cuozzo weighs in on the five New Yorkers on the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list: “‘Let me get this straight — Momofuku Ssäm Bar [No. 40] is better than all of the restaurants in Asia.’ Noodle on that! In fact, of course, the whole thing’s a joke. … I’m thrilled that Per Se came in at No. 10 worldwide, Daniel at No. 11 and Le Bernardin at No. 18. … Where’s Del Posto? L’Atelier Joel Robuchon at the Four Seasons? Marea? Nowhere! But Eleven Madison Park made No. 24.”
[NY Post]

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 20, 2011


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