Pulino’s menu has undergone quite a few changes since Nate Appleman jumped ship for Chipotle, most notably with a drastic switch in the pizza crust recipe. But the breakfast menu has also just been updated. The famed breakfast pizzas remain, but you can now choose from a selection of Balthazar Bakery pastries to-go, as well as breakfast sandwiches on freshly made focaccia. Never one to turn down a breakfast sandwich, we popped in to check out the new daybreak offerings.
Among the three focaccia-based sammies, we opted for the $9 Bologna, which came stuffed with scrambled eggs, mortadella, roasted red peppers, arugula, and a thin smear of mustard. Mostly because we feel a breakfast sandwich by nature must include eggs. Otherwise, it’s just a regular sandwich (hence our reason for not ordering the Caprese, with mozzarella, tomato, and basil, or the Verdure, which came filled with goat cheese, roasted peppers, squash, and young onions). All in all, the sandwich nicely contrasted textures and flavors: sharpness from the arugula and mustard, porky fat flavor from the mortadella, and an earthiness from the peppers, and the bread balanced sponginess and crispness. Yes, it’s more expensive than a $3 ham and cheese on a roll from the corner breakfast cart, so we wouldn’t order this every day. But rather for those days when the same-old-breakfast blues strike.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 21, 2011