Robert Sietsema at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey at La Silhouette


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds Munich in Midtown at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey is charmed by old-fashioned La Silhouette.

Sam Sifton awards three stars to the Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, raving, “What [César] Ramirez is doing at the Chef’s Table is entirely his own production, a kind of sui generis exercise in personal expression.”
[NY Times]

Sifton also has a lot of love for Giuseppina’s Pizza: “a wide and bubbling pie ($20), smelling of fresh basil, of Parmesan and tomato sauce and the warm-milky scent of mozzarella (roughly half of it made from cow’s milk, roughly half from water buffalo’s). The crust is chewy, pliant, with a dull complexion that belies its great flavor. … The combination is aces high.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt notes misfires aplenty at David Burke Kitchen: “The entrées at this farm-to-table restaurant are predictably rich and protein-heavy, and some of them stand up to the two-fisted Burkean treatment better than others.”
[NY Magazine]

Steve Cuozzo is pleasantly surprised by Imperial No. Nine: “Sam Talbot’s menu aims not for grandeur but for good, clean fun. It delivers more than you expect from a chef better-known for his Top Chef persona than for a track record in actual restaurants. This is party-animal feed for adult animals, mingling pungent notes of Asia and Talbot’s native Charleston, SC.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes falls for Porsena: “Like visiting a solicitous neighbor whose kitchen is always stocked with good things to eat, it’s easy for a visitor to imagine [Sara] Jenkins happily tending the range here, glass of red wine in one hand, sauté pan in the other. … The best of her pastas are spontaneous and comforting.”

Tables for Two is thrilled to discover authentic Mexican at Tortilleria Nixtamal: “The intense, aromatic corn brings a powerful flavor to every dish.”
[New Yorker]

Gael Greene echoes the critics’ praise of Red Rooster: “Everything you may have read about Red Rooster is true. It draws a standing room only crowd that is as diverse as its menu. … Marcus Samuelsson and partners launched hot and the place hasn’t cooled yet.”
[Insatiable Critic]

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 27, 2011


Archive Highlights