Now that Mile End has successfully spread the gospel of Jewish delicatessen across Boerum Hill and its leafy environs, a new establishment is planning to pay homage to its more aquatic counterpart.
Carroll Gardens Patch reports that Shelsky’s Smoked Fish is coming to 251 Smith Street, and, as its name suggests, it will offer the whole mishpucha: “smoked salmon, house-pickled herring, house-cured herring, bagels, bialys and rugelach.” Its owner, Peter Shelsky, will reportedly do a lot of the curing himself, and hopes to open the business within the next month.
Shelsky also owns Pete’s Eats, a catering company, and has worked at Café Sabarsky and Eleven Madison Park. He’s calling his shop “a Brooklyn nod to a traditional Lower East Side smoked fish place.” Sounds great, though perhaps he should clarify that as “brownstone Brooklyn,” as Brighton Beach and Midwood already abound with smoked fish shops.
In any case, it’s encouraging to see someone bringing something original to Smith Street, and, as our admittedly biased stomachs will attest, a city can never have too much herring.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 27, 2011