Having conquered the mighty burger, vegetarians across the city might want to expand their quest for good meatless versions of traditionally fleshy sandwiches. Such bold folk would do well to start with Van Horn Sandwich Shop, which has a meat-free BLT on the menu. Now, just what faceless food stands in for the “B,” you might ask?
Van Horn’s BLT is actually a Sweet PLT, and the Sweet “P” is … any guesses? Sweet potato. The starchy, sweet root vegetables are sliced thin and deep-fried to browned crisps for those who like their fakin’ bacon crispy. And a few of the thicker slices stay moist and chewy, giving the sandwich a good, meaty texture. Anyone who’s ever had potato pizza can attest to the fact that starch-on-starch is a particularly satisfying sin. In addition to the sweet “P,” big lettuce leaves and thick slices of beefsteak tomato are layered on top of a bready sesame-seed hamburger bun, enlivened with a healthy schmear of mayo. All that goodness is hard to keep from squeezing out the sides of this two-hander. Not to worry: You get a fork and knife to finish the job with.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 27, 2011
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