The #1 Veggie Burger at Elevation Burger is all orange and ricey.
We’ve snuck peeks at Eater’s weeklong burger coverage somewhat enviously, but our peeking has also made us want to get into the act. Accordingly, here are some of the more perverse burgers we’ve encountered over the last few months, and perhaps it will surprise you to know that one is vegetarian, and one vegan. Unless you insist on putting a piece of American cheese on top.
1. Veggie Burger #1 at Elevation Burger — This rice patty makes one of the city’s stranger burgers. “What prevents it from being vegan?” our Fork in the Road reporter asked the counterperson. “Real mozzarella,” was the enthusiastic reply. Hmmm, looks more to us like Velveeta. Still, smeared with mustard, it tastes something like a Texas Whataburger if you close your eyes.103 West 14th Street, 212-924-4448
2. Fatty Johnson’s Fatty Burger — To us, the lush burger at this Carmine Street pop-up tasted like breakfast. After all, an egg, Virginia ham, and gooey cheese came annealed to the bulbous beef patty. Alas, Fatty Johnson’s has long since unpopped.
3. Frita Cubana at Coppelia — Perhaps the weirdest burger on this list — weird because it’s so illogical — is the frita Cubana. On top of a giant hump of very good meat, which the staff will cook very rare without you asking, is a handful of pulled pork and a scatter of dense, cruncherific pork skins. It’s like a pig attacking a cow in the barnyard, with fatal results. 207 West 14th Street, 212-858-5001
4. Black Shack’s Tofu Burger — Found on a darkling stretch of Lexington Avenue, where late-evening pedestrians scurry in the shadows like albino rats, the flame-grilled tofu burger is made of very dense and chewy tofu, so it stands up to your teeth about as well as Angus ground beef. 320 Lexington Avenue, 212-213-0042
5. Hooker Burger at Galway Hooker — We’ve shown an affinity for any burger that dares to put an egg on top — the runnier, the better. In that regard, the aptly named hooker burger (no, it won’t do any good to tell you a hooker is a boat, you know better) is a giant wad of meat also plastered with Irish cheddar and Irish bacon. 133 Seventh Avenue South, 212-675-6220
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 28, 2011