Although we have no trouble finding plentiful innovation in ice cream, we rarely encounter the same quality in ice cream cones, which tend to be an afterthought or, worse, cake cones. So when we heard that Karloff offered pretzel ice cream cones, and thus the potential to fulfill our most sordid sweet-salty fantasies, we took ourselves over to Court Street.
It is as advertised: a cone made from pretzel dough, and encrusted with salt. Although it wouldn’t complement every flavor that Karloff serves, it made an excellent partner for a scoop of coconut-peanut-ginger ice cream. All of the flavors in Karloff’s gratifyingly long display case come from Jane’s, the Kingston company that also turns out the ice cream used in Little Buddy’s fantastic ice cream sandwiches.
Here, as at Little Buddy, the flavor is a treat — fresh, silky, and not shy with the ginger. Its sweetness provides satisfying contradiction to the cone, which, despite being covered in salt, isn’t overwhelmingly salty. It is, however, crunchy, as a pretzel should be, and this attribute makes it even more enjoyable to scarf down that last bit of ice cream that puddles at the tip of the cone.
A scoop at Karloff’s costs $2.85, and the cone costs $2 extra, making it the rare surcharge we’re happy to swallow.
254 Court Street, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on April 29, 2011