Food

DBGB Tries to Build Its Own Secret Garden on the Bowery

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We’ve always marveled at the apparent eagerness of Bowery restaurateurs to seat their well-heeled patrons abreast of oncoming traffic; perhaps the impulse stems from barely sublimated sadism, or the belief that thin-crust pizza tastes better when anointed with diesel fumes.

So we were amused yesterday to come across DBGB’s outdoor seating, which last season sat so brazenly unprotected from the street the restaurant has helped to gentrify. Now it looks as though management has absconded with half of Peels’ foliage, presumably so that DBGB’s patrons can eat their steak tartare and saucissons undisturbed by the street’s more unsavory elements. Say what you will about the shrubbery — it’s nice to see that the Bowery is still capable of offending someone.

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