The fried-food edifice pictured above is one of the many reasons we look forward to summer beer-garden dining. It’s Franklin Park’s oyster po’boy, all but buried under a stockpile of shoestring fries.
It’s an impressive thing, this po’boy, and if it veers a little too far from tradition to please purists, it’s still one massively satisfying sandwich. Fat, cornmeal-dredged oysters are scattered like throw pillows over a mess of slightly tangy slaw and a few sweet bread-and-butter pickles, and cradled by a brawny bun. The latter is more baguette than the golden-crusted, doughy French bread the sandwich traditionally calls for, but it’s a useful vehicle for getting all of the good bits to your mouth. Also, it functions well as a sponge, soaking up all of the juices that would otherwise end up dribbling down your chin.
Tomato, red onions, and greens also supplement the oysters, which themselves could use a wee bit more salt. But taken as a whole, together with its bale of fries, the po’boy, which appears on the menu as a special, makes an ideal accompaniment to a lazy afternoon of unfettered alcohol consumption. Good day, sunshine.
618 St. Johns Place, Brooklyn