In March, when news broke that the Acme Bar & Grill would close, Bob Pollock, the owner of the 25-year-old restaurant, told us that he would be reopening it as a “contemporary Acme” serving “lighter fare.” But now it seems that “contemporary Acme” means “not remotely reminiscent of Acme.”
Grub Street reported yesterday that the Acme space is being taken over by Jean-Marc Houmard, Michael Callahan, and Huy Chi Le, the trio behind Indochine and Kittichai. Neither one of those places — faux-French colonial Vietnamese and upscale Thai, respectively — shares much common ground with Acme, with its calorie-intensive Southern fare and roadhouse ambiance, suggesting that Pollock’s professed intention to keep the restaurant more or less intact was so much smoke and mirrors.
So we asked Pollock whether he could confirm the news. And he did, more or less. “Partnering that’s about it, I bought into it,” he replied over e-mail. So we asked if that meant that the Indochine team would be in charge of the renovation and whatever restaurant replaces Acme, and if so, what that meant for the vague farm-to-table concept he had also mentioned doing.
He replied that “I’ll still be bringing veggies and eggs from my own farm, Buttermilk Falls Inn and Millstone farm and some from Hepworth farm.” OK, but vegetables and eggs from a farm do not a farm-to-table concept make, no matter how many publicists seem to think otherwise. Could he be more specific? “We’re still working on this.”
Further details will undoubtedly surface, but in the meantime, it seems safe to say that when Pollock said he was hoping the new Acme would attract “new faces and money,” he was referring more to investors than clientele.
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