Jonathan Gold Is a Fan of M. Wells’ “Mucusoid Textures”


“I was impressed with a presentation of roasted marrow bones spiked with snails, a layering of mucusoid textures whose virtuosity could only be applauded, as well as pickled pig’s tongue with mustard; hand-slivered beef tartare; and a bowl of herbed tripe tossed with long-cooked broccoli and smoked herring.” —Jonathan Gold gives his approval to M. Wells, where he dined with Our Man Sietsema while in town for the Beard Awards.


This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 12, 2011

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