Jonathan Gold Is a Fan of M. Wells’ “Mucusoid Textures”


“I was impressed with a presentation of roasted marrow bones spiked with snails, a layering of mucusoid textures whose virtuosity could only be applauded, as well as pickled pig’s tongue with mustard; hand-slivered beef tartare; and a bowl of herbed tripe tossed with long-cooked broccoli and smoked herring.” —Jonathan Gold gives his approval to M. Wells, where he dined with Our Man Sietsema while in town for the Beard Awards.