Those wondering what happened to Liza Queen after she closed the Queen’s Hideaway in 2008, wonder no more.
The chef, who arguably was the first to make Greenpoint a dining destination with the kind of quirky, seasonal, vaguely Southern-accented food that would soon come to define vast swaths of Brooklyn, is resurfacing at Smorgasburg this Saturday.
This news comes courtesy of The New York Times, which reports that Queen has a new concern called Queen’s Dahn Tu. After closing Queen’s Hideaway, she went off to Vietnam, where she studied the country’s cuisine. She’ll be selling some of the fruits of her newly acquired knowledge, including banh xeo (an omelet-crepe stuffed with meat or vegetables) and banh tran tram, a concoction of shredded rice paper, fried shallots, hard-boiled quail eggs, and shredded green mango.
Smorgasburg, with its profusion of meticulously wrought goods from both established chefs and scrappy vendors, would seem to be a logical landing place for Queen, both in spirit and sensibility. And between her and the other 99 or so Smorgasburg vendors, we may very well bear witness to the most pure distillation of Brooklyn’s artisanal chauvinism to date. It is sure to be a sight to behold, and digest; we’re already anticipating the untold number of blog posts and trend pieces that will undoubtedly follow with no small degree of awe, and fear.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 18, 2011