To write of reinvigorating the beet salad is at best faintly ridiculous and at worst an invitation to food-world caricature. But at the Dutch, one of the salad family’s most abused and tired-out members has finally gotten its groove back: It’s less vegetation than vindicated chick-lit heroine.
To begin with, no goat cheese or walnuts — toasted, candied, or otherwise — are anywhere to be found. Instead, there’s tart, runny yogurt, puddled attractively around the sunset-hued beets and veined with olive oil, and a scattering of crunchy pumpkin seeds. There’s also celery, manifested in both wispy shavings and fat leaves. Truth be told, this quarter of Fork in the Road loathes celery with a passionate, almost irrational intensity. But it was presented so unobtrusively on this salad that we nearly mistook the leaves for parsley and the shavings for fennel.
And more importantly, it worked with all of the salad’s other components, which also included a hint of dill, some slivers of purple onion, and a chopped-up smoked egg. The little puffs of smoke were what truly elevated the salad ($14) from attractive assemblage of parts to obscure object of desire. Where there’s smoke, there’s fire, and we are but moths to the flame.
131 Sullivan Street
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