Rhubarb season is finally here, at least at the Dutch. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Kierin Baldwin, is celebrating the perennial in both frozen form — it appears as a sherbet in her spring sundae — and as the luscious filling in her gorgeous rhubarb pie.
This may very well be the Platonic Ideal of rhubarb pie: It’s got that tanned, latticed crust fringed with raw sugar, a vibrant, sweet-tart filling accented with a wisp of rosewater, and a smooth orb of lemon sherbet to keep it company. There’s also a scattering of sliced strawberries and candied kumquat rinds, the latter of which may be the best thing to happen to rhubarb since sugar.
Although its $10 price tag may seem a bit lavish, the pie is so generously proportioned and richly satisfying that you could eat it on its own and call it lunch. That’s what we did a few days ago, and hope to do again as soon as possible.
131 Sullivan Street
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