Having opened a few months back, Hung Ry quickly got a rep for selling excellent hand-pulled noodle soups whose toppings veered more toward the heights of the gastronomical chic than toward the comfort chow found in Chinatown. We stopped by recently for lunch, and were highly impressed with their sole vegetarian offering, advertised as “carrot broth, charred kazu, vegetables, sesame.”
The $13 soup runs a little steep for lunch (even as part of the $15 lunch special, which includes either a green salad or ice cream), but it arrives in a huge bowl, with enough inside to really provide two lunches. Carrot broth is a dicey proposition — so often it’s feeble and runny, like a toddler’s snot, or has a sickly sweet raw carrot taste. Fortunately, this broth is neither. Instead, it’s rich and thick, flavored with charred kazu, otherwise known as sake lees, which add a lovely complexity. Should you want some more oomph, though, you can squirt in an accompanying earthy black bean sauce or a spicy habanero sauce. We opted for the thick noodles over the thin (why have less when you can have more is our philosophy!), and were pleased with their chewy bite. And the crowning jewel — or should we say jewels — was the bounty of crisp-tender seasonal veggies playing hide-and-seek amid the strands: Fresh fiddlehead ferns, sliced radishes, tomatoes, asparagus, carrots, maitake mushrooms, and mustard greens. A soup for spring, whose memory is sure to outlast the season.
55 Bond Street
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