This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has a gastropub revelation at Dean Street in Prospect Heights, where chef Mike Franzetti “illustrates state-of-the-art principles in gastropub menu construction.” Lauren Shockey heads to Bi Lokma for Turkish “chow just like babaanne — er, granny — used to make.”
Sam Sifton takes the week off to dine in London, leaving Julia Moskin to sample new eats in Queens, including “spicy fried pickles at the gastro-pub Sweet Afton ($5); the caramel- and chile-tinged chocolate diablito cake at Pachanga Patterson ($6); the chirashi sushi, fresh as whitecaps, at Linn ($22),” as well as “distinctly odd” Queens Comfort and “odd but rewarding” the Astor Room.
Meanwhile, Underground Gourmet investigates Queens Kickshaw: “Outré ingredients are well and good, but with grilled cheese, as with omelettes and roast chicken, technique is key. The cardinal sin of the grilled-cheese cook is insufficient melt. The Queens Kickshaw technicians overcome this obstacle by giving the sandwiches a head start in the oven and then a butter-lubricated finish on the griddle.”
Jay Cheshes approves of Lyon, praising the way it “looks, smells and tastes like the city it’s named for. This dream version of a bouchon — a traditional working-class restaurant you might stumble upon on the banks of the Rhône — feels conjured from Time-Life cookbooks, Jacques Tati films and flea-market finds.”
Ryan Sutton raves over Tenpenny: “This is the kind of place that would be declared the next Torrisi if it were located in a shiny Mulberry storefront.” He’s less enthusiastic over Desmond’s, which may serve “one of the best Dover Soles in New York,” but can’t overcome the chef’s “bad habit of making expensive items taste ordinary.”
Tables for Two checks out the scene at John Dory Oyster Bar: “It’s hard to find a square meal on the menu of small plates, but that’s not the point here. The crudi are imaginative and impeccable. … Chilled half-lobster, with an unsightly smear of tomalley vinaigrette, gets by on its winning personality (it’s well steamed and satisfying, and it’s lobster, after all).”
Gael Greene finds a lot to love at the Dutch, citing “mounting surprise and pleasure in what we ate: Smoked ricotta ravioli napped with tomato sauce. Hefty Asian-flavored ribs, tender and chewy, sweet and spicy (maybe a shade too sauced-up). The satiny mouth feel and aggressive flavoring of the grilled flank steak with fresh greens and a tingle of horseradish on smoked potatoes. Oddly satisfying lamb neck mole, melting with fat, served in a sauté pan.”
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