The Big Gay Ice Cream Truck’s Magnificent Mermaid


Given all of the words we’ve spilled on the Big Gay Ice Cream Truck’s imminent storefront expansion, it’s given us a serious hankering for its soft-serve.

And so we found ourselves standing in line there on Tuesday, in a state of happy indecision. Both the Monday Sundae and the Mermaid called out to us with the promise of a waffle cone and lime curd, respectively. Fortunately, Doug Quint put an end to our minor dilemma by making us a Mermaid in a waffle cone, and then sent us on our merry way.

The Mermaid itself comprises vanilla soft-serve, whipped cream, graham-cracker crumbs, and the aforementioned lime curd. It’s a little like a Key lime pie that melts. Crammed into a waffle cone and wearing its whipped cream like an Elizabethan collar, it’s fairly fantastic.

This is in large part because the curd is abundant, zigzagged both on top of the ice cream and up and down the cone’s interior. Every bite yields a tart rejoinder to the vanilla’s placid sweetness, sassing up what could otherwise be a bit of a one-note wonder. The graham-cracker crumbs are scattered like fairy dust and sort of fade into the background, but with all of the lime curd and the crunch of the cone, their relative absence isn’t really felt.

But all of the other components certainly are: This is a mighty serving of soft-serve, and almost functions as a meal. But it’s more or less summer, which means that we’ve entered the time of the year where ice cream is an acceptable substitute for dinner (or lunch or breakfast), making the $6 cone one of the more affordable entrées we’ve encountered in a while.