Robert Sietsema at Empellon; Lauren Shockey at Imperial No. Nine


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema sees what famed pastry chef Alex Stupak can do at Empellon: “The tacos are magnificent. … Using his gastronomic prowess, Stupak has sent the flavors soaring.” Lauren Shockey finds hits and misses at Imperial No. Nine: “Some dishes fail completely. … But other plates showcase [Sam] Talbot’s talents.”

Sam Sifton awards one star to Tenpenny in Gotham Hotel. Despite having “all the charm of a lobby bar in Albany,” he says, “[t]his is a good restaurant? Against heavy odds, it is.” [NY Times]

Adam Platt finds the food impeccable at Brushstroke, but is “not sure how many of [David] Bouley’s impatient fellow New Yorkers will be willing to sit still, in this era of instantly gratifying retro comfort foods, for this kind of stately, slightly archaic prix fixe meal.” [NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes also drops in on Empellon and is left wanting: “The service is warm, the margaritas fresh, the chunky guacamole well spiced. But the tacos and other antojito snacks mostly fall pretty flat.”

Gael Greene makes her way all the way out to MP Taverna in Long Island and doesn’t regret it: “It’s one of those menus where my friend Harriet and I want everything.” [Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two approves of the diminutive Gentleman Farmer: “From an impossibly tiny kitchen with little more than an electric stovetop, the chef, Karim Nounouh, sends out ambitious preparations of game meats like pheasant, rabbit, venison, and wild boar.” [New Yorker]