It appears another pizzaiolo has thrown his pizza peel into the ring — in the vicinity of Motorino, Roberta’s, and Paulie Gee’s, no less. So, what makes Giulio Adriani think that his Neapolitan pies can make a splash in the saturated New York pizza scene? For one, he has some serious credentials. He is the master teacher of the American branch of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), an international organization that promotes authentic Neapolitan pizza. He recently ran the kitchen at Olio Pizza e Più in the West Village before opening Forcella in Williamsburg 10 days ago, just a few doors down from Gimme! Coffee.
As you might guess, the man is a stickler for tradition; almost everything is imported from Italy, from the ingredients to the wood-fired oven from Napoli. Expect both red pies like the Quartieri Spagnoli (margherita pie with mushrooms, olives, ham, and artichokes — $15) and Marinara alla Starita (tomato sauce, garlic, oregano, and pecorino — $9), and white pies like the Vomero (mozzarella, ham, cream, corn, and ricotta — $15). Look forward to ordering the Forcella, which apparently is where Adriani simply chooses eight ingredients to put on your pizza for $17.
The 49-seat restaurant has a clean and classic look, with exposed brick walls, black-and-white photos of Italian street scenes, and hardwood floors. It’s actually the first of two pizzerias, the next one being a much bigger version of the same restaurant set to open on the Bowery in about a month.
Sadly, Adriani says that the wine and beer license is still about a month and a half away, so you’ll have to enjoy your pizza sober. Non-pizza items seem to be limited to a few salads and appetizers like imported burrata cheese, bruschetta, and caponata. The dessert menu holds one doozy: the Pizza alla Nutella, a pizza stuffed with nutella and almonds.
485 Lorimer Street, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 14, 2011