Although Culture just barely edged out Victory Garden in Our 10 Best New Frozen Treats‘ soft-serve category, we still count the latter’s goat’s milk ice cream as one of the summer’s new highlights.
Sophia Brittan, Victory’s owner and resident soft-serve sorceress, procures her milk from the does at Connecticut’s Beltane Farm and churns it to optimum creaminess. Wisely, she keeps her flavors simple, which allows her to showcase the goat’s milk’s natural tanginess and slight but not unpleasant barnyard funk, which works particularly well in Victory’s husky, subtly sweet chocolate soft-serve. Paired with a generous spray of pistachios and a few spoonfuls of strawberry-rhubarb sauce, it’s not only intensely pleasurable to eat, but also beautiful to behold.
A regular serving will set you back $4.50, and if you get the two toppings that we did, you’ll end up forking over $7.89 for the privilege. Given how much ice cream we’ve already consumed this early in the season, we’re more or less inured to the inherent insanity of paying as much for a cone as we would for a sizable sandwich, but perhaps that’s because we now think of dessert as an entrée. Regardless of your own feelings on the matter, we’ve concluded that Victory Garden’s soft-serve is good enough to qualify as a triumph over reason.
31 Carmine Street