No, 900 Degrees isn’t a new boyband; it’s the Greenwich Village offshoot of a San Francisco pizzeria, where the Voice‘s Robert Sietsema was a bit overwhelmed by the six different categories of pizza, from the fantastic Naples pies to the “rib-sticking, but unremarkable” thick Sicilian pies to the giant Roman pies, one of which, to his dismay, was covered in “gorgonzola, candied pecans, apples, Nutella, and honey.”
Lauren Shockey checks out Brushstroke, the pricey Tribeca collaboration between David Bouley and the Tsuji Culinary Institute of Osaka, whose dish of egg custard topped with truffled broth and Dungeness crab inspires her to write a haiku: “Bouley, marry me/So you can cook this nightly/Bowl of ecstasy. “
Sam Sifton mingles with high society at Desmond’s on the Upper East Side, whose food he calls “well-prepared haute nursery food with a vague Continental accent,” which is meant in a good way … kind of.
Amelia Lester gets a lesson in the limits of locavorism and the West Village’s Bell Book & Candle, whose rooftop vegetables had the “smoky aftertaste of city exhaust fumes.” The rest of the menu, however, like the fried oysters with a green-chile-buttermilk dressing and the gin-and-tonic salmon, demonstrated plenty of “imagination and verve.”
Jay Cheshes traces the career of chef Jody Williams, whose “self-consciously retro cooking is a showcase not of the chef’s creativity but of her very good taste,” creating lines of customers outside of her tiny West Village bistro Buvette. [Time Out]
Ryan Sutton claims that Andrew Carmellini’s the Dutch “instantly ranks with Minetta Tavern as one of the city’s top chop houses.” [Bloomberg]
Carey Jones of the Serious Eats team finds getting into Eataly’s new Birreria more like getting into a “West 27th Street nightclub in 2005 than it does any restaurant I’ve ever been to.” Once on the pleasant rooftop, however, they found sausages that were “very good to excellent” and mushroom dishes that prove “vegetarian fare can be as indulgent as its meatier counterparts.” [Serious Eats]